Saturday, 24 December 2011

The Big Day

No Not Christmas that's tomorrow...... The maiden Voyage ! Dad was on hand with his camera and got carried away taking pictures, perhaps he thought we would never see it again !!!

Bobs donated wheel !

Under seat servo

Deck Covers

Ready to go

Hull Profile

Rear view

The working end

Power and steering
The Video !!!!!!!

To be honest it went as well as I had hoped, no leaks, easy to control and plenty of power without heating the motors... All in all a good result.

Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Motor and stability Tests

Having added a removable roof and made a couple of deck covers it was back in the bath. The model is still around 1.4 Kg lighter than planned, which is good as there is more plastic to add. The aim is to make the construction about another 0.7Kg which will allow me to add some lead into the bottom of the hull. Stability seems pretty good as it is quite wide. As the video shows even adding all the excess ballast to one side, leaves the boat listing but stable. Although the wheelhouse is tall it is light.

Power wise the twin motors give out quite a bit of thrust, when the bow is not pressed up the to the bath, the boat takes quite a bit of holding back. Obviously a better feel for power to weight ratio will come from a test on the open water. I did find if I held the boat back on full throttle, it caused the thermal breaker to trip.

Length wise, the boat is more or less the same size as my Dads Aziz and has the same size props and similar motors. My hull however is an inch or so wider. We have also weighed the Aziz, which is how we arrived at the target weight I am working towards with my build (6.5Kg without the battery). The biggest difference is the height.

Wheel house 2

3 extra sheets of 30thou plastikard has completed the sides of the wheelhouse...

Sunday, 18 December 2011


After Dads visit for dinner, we had some boat time. I had him check over the drive shafts as one was running a bit noisier than the other, turns out I had the slip collar to close to the end of the outer prop shaft . 

As the picture shows the electrickery  is in place. The power on / off switch is to the top right of the picture. A thermal cut out can be seen behind the battery. The receiver is velcro fastened to the underside of the cross bar just in front of the battery. Finally the two speed controllers are mounted just inboard of the motors themselves.

This evening I stripped the prop shafts down and filed flats on them so that the grub screws in the universal joints had something to secure too. On reassembly, I made sure they were well lubricated and they are both running sweetly now.

Friday, 16 December 2011

Wheel house

I had to stay at home this morning as CSL were booked in to come and make repairs to our sofa. Never one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I cracked on with the wheelhouse that I started yesterday tea time.

The first 2 pictures were taken about 7pm yesterday. They show the lower half of the structure in position. Note the little guy now now has his own tool kit (£2 Ebay) I take help where I can get it !!

Then after some more cutting and sticking some more pictures this dinner time.. 

The plan is the structure will be fixed in with a removable roof and access panel in the floor.

Next I found a servo in the shed and sorted the rudder controls out, along with fitting the receiver (£12 New off Ebay) and the one speed controller I have. 
After binding the receiver to the transmitter the one motor and rudders were tested and worked well.

Having never built a boat before and as this is a "make it up as you go along" design I am very concious this has to float when its finished!! So a test of levels and weights in the bath was called for. I am happy to report that the boat sits level to its intended waterline. Still a little heigh but as its not finished yet that is to be expected. In the picture below the water can just be seen sitting below the bottom pen line. The upper pen line being the deck level. 

I then used my scientific method of calculating how much more weight could be added. As can be seen 1.5 litres of water at the front and 0.5 Litres at the back bring the boat to its intended water line which gives me 1.5kg and 0.5kg of model/ballast to add.

This last picture gives quite an impression of the size, as it floats in my bath tub.

While it was in the bath I hooked up the battery, the leads need to be longer for it to sit in its right place as the above picture.

Thursday, 15 December 2011


Last year when I was building 1:24 scale trains I had a figure that appeared in many of the pictures. He bacame known as "pointing man" and gained quite a following on some Railway related forums. He can be seen doing his thing in this POST. I would like to introduce you to his larger counterpart, who has of yet has not got a name. For the purpose of demonstrating scale he will probably be seen quite a few times as my boat build progress's. He is an Action Man, acquired from ebay for about £2 and stands roughly 12" (30cm) tall.

As the picture shows things have moved on since the last post. Motors, props and rudders are mounted, and the two main deck areas are cut, the front one is fixed in place. Much of the equipment has come from my Dads "spares box" and some, like the rudders, have been donated by a very generous Bob. (thanks)

On a slightly different note I attended the AGM of Etherow Model Boat Club last night. Thanks to those involved who have named a new Trophy for" the best static model or diorama" in memory of my Mum The Velda Teal Trophy. Mum had been an active member of the club, serving as the general secretary and chief landing stage gardener.

Dad also had some honours, winning the Shield for the years best kit built boat, for his Oil Rig supply ship Aziz


Peter Teal (left) receives award.

Saturday, 3 December 2011

Hull setting and cradle

In the last post, I outlined plans to build a 1:6 scale work boat. The hull was ordered and arrived on Wednesday. Its well finished including the cut top edge. Nothing was done until Friday night when my Dad came up for his tea, after which we played with various different angles and thoughts. Prior to coming up, he had weighed his Wyeforce Tug which although a different scale, is of a similar physical size and has the same motor set up I plan to use. That weighed in at 6.5Kg minus the battery. So we filled the bath and played boats

As water weighs 1Kg per 1 Litre, I took some 500ml bottles of water up to the bathroom too. My hull weighs 2.2Kg so to match the Tugs weight I would need an additional 4.3KG or 9 bottles of water and a battery. Loaded up with the battery in the centre and 9 water bottles strategically placed to balance it out, it floated beautifully in the bath. A pen mark was put on the bow and stern to mark the water line.

This morning with the water line spotted on the front and back some more work was done. The first job was to get out the laser level, I only had about an hour and a half to spare so didn't think I would get much done.

The level was placed on the sideboard and a line projected over the table. By measuring up from the table top, to the projected line, the table was levelled to create my own "surface table" note the technical use of table mats under the table legs to help this levelling process..

Next the hull was placed upside down on the table and packed up, again using mats, until the line touched the pre marked water line on the bow and stern. This laser line now represents the water line.

To mark this line on the hull would be done using a height gauge, if I had one, so I used a marker pen on a tin of stewing steak, adjusted to height with drinks mats. This was done all round with a gentle pressure on the hull to ensure it wasn't sat twisted. the laser was left on just to check as I went along.

We had decided last night how much higher than the water, the deck was going to be. This line was added after raiding the food cupboard to find a tin of sweetcorn was just right.

My Dad had pointed out the benefits of making a stand as the first job, so that was the next job. I had only planned to mark the lines but it seemed a shame to not carry on with the table set!
I used some conti-board for the uprights. By using 4 tins of baked beans to support the upright over the hull I marked 130mm up from the beans and the hull and a freehand line was drawn that could be cut with the jigsaw.

Note that I left the frame longer each side so it would sit back down on the bean cans, ensuring the straight top edge is parallel to the table. As can be seen the cut is rough and leaves a gap to the hull. I applied masking tape to the hull as a release strip. Then mixed some car body filler, spread it on the support where it contacts the hull and pressed it down, till it sat on hard on the bean cans. This was repeated for the front support and a top plate added.

Once the filler had gone nearly hard ( about 10 mins) the whole thing was turned over and the hull pulled away, the masking tape parted from the filler very well and left an impression of the hull shape on the supports.

The filler squashed out leaving it wider than the wood but was easy to knife to thickness if done before total hardness was achieved.

After peeling the tape of the hull it was then sat back on its perfect fit cradle.

This will be a steady working cradle the pre marked pen lines are now parallel to each other and the table. I will probably make a new cradle with sponge on for when the hull is painted. I am sure old hands at boat building will have much more effective, neat, quicker and accurate methods of doing all this, i admit to making it as I went along!



Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...